north norfolk

Just back from our annual September jaunt to North Norfolk, where we did all our usual things, like long walks through the salt marshes and by the sea. Our sentimental favorite is still Cley-next-the-Sea...

in all weathers,

but we walked through the marshes and dunes at Burnham Overy Staithe and along the beaches at Holkham, Wells, and Old Hunstanton too:

And as usual, I ate my weight in fresh-off-the-boat crab and lobster from our favorite purveyors: Gurneys in Burnham Market, the Cley Smokehouse,

and the North Norfolk Fish Company in Holt:

And we didn't neglect our intake of fruit and veggies either, with several visits to Wiveton Hall, Farm Shop, and Café,

still one of my best-loved spots for morning coffee despite the construction below (the path and sea defences are being rebuilt following the tidal surge last December).

But lest you think we're stuck in a rut, we made a few new discoveries too. Like the Black Apollo Coffee House in Holt, where they take their coffee very seriously indeed! And Binham Priory. The nave of the original church is now used as a church in itself, while the very extensive ruins are in the care of English Heritage:

So in the end, as in previous years, we did have something old and something new, as well as something borrowed (a friend's new house!), and with sunny skies most days, something very blue:

virtual vacation, part two

The rest of our holiday album is similarly devoid of foodie photos: no snaps of our fresh dressed crabs from the Cley Smokehouse, our coffee and buns at the fab new Art Café in Glandford, or our mid-morning croissants at Wiveton Hall Café. 

But we do have one taken outside the Wiveton Hall Farm Shop:

And we have loads of sand and sea and grass, all taken on our walks along the beach and through the salt marshes at Cley-next-the-Sea,

where we stayed in our favorite home-away-from-home, Manor Coach House,

just steps away from the famous windmill:

And there are photos of our other favorite coastal haunts, including Sheringham Park

and Holkham Beach,

where we finally saw the seals we've never seen at Blakeney. But those photos didn't turn out: the plucky pinnipeds are just smudges in the swells. A reminder that sometimes it's better to simply experience and enjoy rather than trying to focus a lens.

Not that I'm planning to put away my camera anytime soon!

crochet in cley

While Monica, Ali, and I were in Mrs Moon on Monday, we had a look through the new pattern books. Being absolutely hopeless at crochet, Rowan's Holiday Crochet didn't really interest me,

until Monica flipped it open, and I saw the chalkboard advertising Homemade Lavender Bread:

Because this isn't just any chalkboard. This the chalkboard that hangs outside Picnic Fayre Delicatessen, in our very favorite holiday spot, Cley-next-the-Sea.

A closer inspection revealed the entire brochure was indeed photographed in Cley. How did I not recognize the windmill on the cover? But sadly, I've never looked this sexy on my visits to the deli:

Do you think a crochet bag and cardi would help?

holiday next-the-sea, part three

While my favorite Norfolk walks are round Cley, I do love the long walk through Sheringham Park too, which passes through dense woods into rolling fields then onto steep cliffs dropping down to the sea:

And we timed our walk just right to see the North Norfolk Railway come steaming through:

A bit of old-time train spotting was followed by a bit of Old Town shopping in Holt. Old Town Clothing produces about 50 garments per week in its quirky yet understated 'British workwear' style.

Each item is individually cut, sewn, and finished, so you must order 4-6 weeks in advance. Luckily this year I'd thought and ordered ahead so was able to pick up two new Jaywick Smocks, one in Bermondsey in Bloom (blue floral) and the other in Mrs Wilberforce:

© Old Town

So I'm now appropriately attired to channel my inner 1940s housewife. But thank goodness I have a modern washing machine to deal with our holiday laundry!

holiday next-the-sea, part two

While our holiday included two stately homes, we didn't actually enter either. We made a quick stop at Audley End on the way up, where we toured my favorite bit, the restored Service Wing to the side of the house,

then headed out for a very wet walk round the Organic Kitchen Gardens:

Sadly the glasshouses, where we'd spotted such amazing tomatoes and figs last year, were closed. But luckily the Blickling Orangerie was open when we stopped there the next morning:

The Blickling gardens were lovely--we particularly liked the hazy purple catmint borders--but we were really there for the food!

Last year, the National Trust failed to renew the lease of my favorite food shop, Samphire, taking over their beautifully done-up space at the estate entrance to run their own mediocre cafe. Bah. But after numerous protests and petitions, the Trust is allowing Samphire to run a summer weekend pop-up shop in the grounds. So we stocked up on my favorite quiches and pork pies:

And the big news is Samphire is now selling their pork pies and other goodies at farmers' markets too. So maybe if I keep my fingers crossed they'll open a stand at Maltby Street. Then I could do all my bread, meat, cheese, and ice cream shopping in one go!

holiday next-the-sea

Just back from our annual week in North Norfolk, where we walked along the beach at Cley-next-the-Sea,

an unbroken swathe of sand

super for seaweed spotting:

We also traversed the salt marshes--our favorite walk from last year--where we indulged in a spot of amateur bird watching. And the best bit: just a few paces past the end of the marsh path, hidden up a forested track, is the Wiveton Farm Café,

the perfect place to recover, while nibbling fluffy croissants spread with butter and homemade jam.

There were rows and rows of berries to pick by the kilo in the surrounding fields,

but with just the two of us, we purchased smaller pre-picked punnets and other goodies from the shop:

The ideal way to fill a bike basket,

or a bulging bag or two if you've arrived on (blistered!) foot.

getting smutty

Our last big adventure in North Norfolk was a ride on the Wells & Walsingham Light Railway. Or perhaps I should call it a little adventure, as the train was quite small!

Here's G peeping out one of the carriage windows:

We sat in an open car, knee-to-knee, to feel the breeze and get the best views. This was a super idea on the way to Walsingham, where the driver gave the train a quick tune-up:

But not such a super idea on the way back to Wells, when we were covered in coal smuts! I had one in my eye, and it wasn't nearly as romantic as it seemed in Brief Encounter...

sea-foodie

It would be wrong to spend a week in Norfolk without eating seafood.

Can you guess which item I ordered from Gurneys' placard below (keeping in mind I can never resist a cleverly named food product)?

Cray'n'aise: as close as you can get to lobster roll without a lobster!